Walking Albania's Coastal Trails

Our trip officially begins at 8pm in the arrivals hall of Tirana Airport (TIA). Please look out for your tour leader, who will be waiting just outside the arrivals area near the Vodafone stand, holding an Explore signboard. To ensure you have enough time to clear immigration and collect your bags, your flight should arrive no later than 7.30pm. From the airport, we'll travel together to Vlora - a journey of approximately 150 kilometres, which should take around two-and-a-half hours.

If possible, we recommend having dinner before meeting your guide at Tirana Airport. The airport is currently undergoing major renovations, and food options are limited. You might prefer to eat during your flight or bring something with you. There will be a brief stop at local services on the way to Vlora, where snacks and light meals are available. We expect to arrive in Vlora around 10pm.

Vlora is Albania's third largest city and enjoys a stunning location on a sweeping bay protected by the Karaburun Peninsula. Expanding rapidly in recent years, it's becoming a popular holiday destination with both Albanian and international visitors.

This morning we drive south along the coast from Vlora to set out on our first hike of the week from close by the Pashaliman naval base. Our route takes us along the Karaburun Peninsula, a stunning and rugged 16 kilometre-long stretch of land that marks the boundary between the Adriatic Sea to the north and Ionian Sea to the south. The unpopulated peninsula, with its rolling hills and secluded beaches, is part of the Karaburun-Sazan Marine Park.

Starting along a dirt path lined with olive trees, our hike starts winding gently up a rugged and rocky path, through forest and open scrub-lands. We end the walk at a point at which we can enjoy views of the south side of the peninsula and the Ionian Sea. Karaburun Peninsula was once a military base that has only recently been opened to the wider public. The ridgetop here is lined with bunkers, a reminder of Albania's communist history. We walk back following some of the way we came, before branching off to a steeper downhill track with panoramic views of the Adriatic.

Returning to Vlora in the afternoon, there's time to take an early evening stroll along the Lungomare, a recently constructed five-kilometre long promenade that is part of a broader government initiative to revitalize the city's coastline and boost tourism. Cafes, restaurants and ice cream shops line this pedestrianised prom, while locals fish or swim at low tide.

Today's 10 km (6.25 mile) hike is expected to take around 4 hours with a total ascent and descent of 430 metres (1400 feet).

This morning we depart Vlora for the Llogara Pass (1043m), the highest point along a road that was until very recently the main route south along the southern Albanian coast (the alternative Llogara tunnel route was opened in July 2024). Our drive up to the Pass takes us through the Llogara National Park, a diverse terrain of alpine meadows, dense coniferous forests and dramatic rock faces, until we reach the trailhead. The trail ascends steeply on a narrow, zig-zagging path through the pine forest, climbing on a rocky and uneven shepherds' trail to the saddle, the Dhjopuri Pass. The views from here down to the sea and Karaburun Peninsula are simply stunning. We return back on the same route and plan to refuel with lunch at a roadside restaurant with panoramic views.

Continuing for a short while in our bus, we'll stop off to take a shorter contrasting hike this afternoon. A narrow, shrub-lined route takes us from the top of Gjipe Canyon, alongside its cavernous drop, and down to Gjipe Beach. Only accessible on foot, the beach is one of the prettiest on the Albanian Riviera and it's the perfect chance to take a refreshing afternoon swim in turquoise waters. We then follow a dirt track up and out of the beach, picking up our bus for the onward drive to the charming coastal village of Himara, a great base from which to enjoy the best of the region's coastal walks and attractive beaches.

This morning's 5 km (3.2 mile) hike is expected to take around 3.5 hours with a total ascent and descent of 510 metres (1675 feet). The afternoon 4 km (2.8 mile) walk will take us around 1.5 hours with an ascent of 125 metres (410 feet) and descent of 250 metres (800 feet).

This morning, we head down to the seafront to catch a boat along the coast to the start of today's walk at Jala Bay. The first part of our route hugs the coast along a path towards Livadi Bay before heading uphill inland to the village of Old Himara, a maze of narrow streets and traditional stone houses around 240 metres above the coast. The focal point of Old Himara is its ruined castle which dates back to the Byzantine era although parts of its ancient walls are believed to date back as early as the 5th century BC.

We return to our hotel in Himara by bus and the afternoon has been left free for you to relax and enjoy the beach at your leisure. In season, there are usually kayaks available to rent. The restaurants in Himara serve up freshly caught seafood and a mixture of Albanian and Greek dishes. Italian cuisine is also popular and of a good standard, many Albanians having spent some time living and working in their neighbour just a short hop across the Ionian Sea.

This morning's 5 km (3.2 mile) hike is expected to take around 2.5 hours with a total ascent of 260 metres (850 feet) and descent of 85 metres (279 feet).

Our trek today enjoys beautiful views of the Albanian Riviera, passing through terraced landscapes of wild olive groves, verdant green shrubbery and the occasional citrus tree. We begin at the small stone village of Lukova, following a rough and rocky path downhill for almost three-and-a-half kilometres (two miles) before arriving at Buneci Beach. Constructed during the communist era by prisoners from a nearby concentration camp (alongside student volunteers), this first part of today's route is known in some parts as the 'Prisoner Trail'. At Buneci Beach, we walk along the pebbled shore a short way, reaching a path that climbs steadily, and steeply in parts, up the mountainside, before flattening off into a gently undulating trail with endless sea views. After arriving in Borsch we'll return to Himara where we have the rest of the day free.

Today's 11.5 km (7.25 mile) hike is expected to take around 4 hours with a total ascent of 250 metres (830 feet) and descent of 400 metres (1312 feet).

A short bus transfer takes us to the start of today's hike. We start ascending immediately, on a concrete path that winds up to the charming old village of Kudhes. Here, stone houses perch on the hillside, with citrus trees and grape vines flourishing in terraced gardens. Out of the village, we follow an ancient rocky shepherd's trail that continues to climb upwards through forest, before descending through meadows and past olive terraces to Old Qeparo. This sleepy village occupies a picturesque hilltop location and has stunning views across the Albanian Riviera, with the island of Corfu in the distance.

From Old Qeparo it's around a one hour descent to the beach and the modern settlement of Qeparo. We've time to refresh ourselves with a dip in the sea before returning to Himara for our final night on this wonderful stretch of coast.

Today's 12 km (7.5 mile) hike is expected to take around 4.5 hours with a total ascent of 460 metres (1500 feet) and a descent of 430 metres (1411 feet). While some of the trail is gently undulating, this ascent and descent is predominantly straight up and straight down.

Today we leave the coast behind and head back to the Albanian capital Tirana. Before our route heads inland, we'll stop for a look at the Ali Pasha Fortress at the beautiful bay of Porto Palermo. The fortress was built in the early 19th century by the Ottoman Albanian ruler Ali Pasha of Tepelena. We'll explore the different rooms and tunnels of the fortress before admiring the views from its terrace.

We should be back in Tirana by mid afternoon (the drive is around 4-5 hours) to check into our centrally located hotel, after which our tour leader plans to guide us on a brief orientation so that we can make the most of our short time here. The Albanian capital is one of the most dynamic of the Western Balkans and surprises many first-time travellers with its lively restaurant, bar, and cafe scene worth discovering by both day and night. Tonight there's the opportunity to go as a group for our last dinner in the city.

The trip ends after breakfast at our hotel in Tirana.

There are no activities planned today, so you are free to depart from Tirana at any time. If your flight is departing later in the day luggage storage facilities are available at our hotel. If you would like an airport transfer today, you need to depart from Tirana airport (airport code TIA), which is around 30 minutes from our hotel.

If you want more time in Tirana, why not book some extra nights before or after the tour? The capital is a safe and friendly city, easy to navigate and has lots to offer.