Arriving in Ho Chi Minh at the start of the trip, my first impression was the noise of the horns; apparently there are nine million mopeds in the city, also known as Saigon. Pavements and roads are jam-packed, it’s a modern city, but clean and tidy and an ideal base for the first few days. There we met our local guide Hoan, who took us on a walking tour of the city – the perfect introduction to the country – and the food.

He led us through the bustling streets of the Old Quarter before we headed to a restaurant, my first opportunity to taste the local cuisine! I was not disappointed. The flavours of my beef and vegetable stir fry were so different from Thailand. We often make the mistake of lumping all Southeast Asian food together, but the spices are different – not just heat-wise, but in flavour. The produce is so fresh, it was better than anything I’d had at home. I had the best pineapple I’d ever had too; perfectly sweet, juicy, and refreshing. It was soon to become my favourite way to hydrate on our cycling stops.

On day five we cycled the Hon Giao pass to Nha Trang and I was grateful for my e-bike decision. Hoan explained that there was only one road and, as we couldn’t divert off it, we could take the road on at our own pace. At points I was by myself because I’d stopped to take photos. Then I’d turn my e-bike on and catch up with someone for a chat, enjoying the views of the foothills and stopping for sweets to keep me going. The landscape was so varying, with villages and forested areas that changed from pine to almost jungle-like forest filled with different birds calls.

Then there’d be a roadside stall, lush countryside, and rice fields. At the top the whole group shared a real sense of euphoria. Only heightened by the most exhilarating downhill ride I’ve ever had. The vast scenery opened up before us and we just took it all in. That day especially the beer at lunch felt very well-earned!

We met friendly people all along the journey, and in the most unusual places. At the site of the Mai Lai Massacre, in the museum, children from the local school were visiting and despite the immense sadness of the place, they came over to talk to us – full of questions and keen to practice their English. It really showed the resilience and openness of a people, who acknowledged the past they’d experienced but embraced the opportunities of the future.

Our days had started early, but I’d noticed that people were already out exercising too, running on the beach, swimming, and
working out in outdoor gyms, with every generation coming together to keep fit. It’s a real lifestyle attitude they have, there’s an emphasis on physical and mental wellness that is so inspiring and interesting to see, especially when it seemed like the whole population was getting involved. It’s reflected in the food too – so healthy, and ideal for fuelling our days in the saddle.

Another thing that will stay with me about Vietnam is the colour – it’s just so vibrant, as though someone’s turned the saturation up. But it was the cycling that had exceeded all my expectations. Even when riding on busier roads we were well taken care of: Hoan made it so easy to navigate something so different from what we’re used to at home (I’ve never had to dodge a chicken before!), cutting a line with the mechanic at the rear, so we always felt safe.